Kakheti is Georgia's largest region and its undisputed wine capital. The Alazani Valley, which runs through the heart of eastern Georgia, is carpeted with vineyards, dotted with monastery complexes, and backed by the snow-capped Greater Caucasus. Whether you are after cellar-door tastings, hilltop fortress towns, or remote highland trekking, Kakheti delivers.
The two main gateways are Sighnaghi, a walled hilltop town known as the City of Love, and Telavi, the regional capital with a more local, lived-in atmosphere. Both are easily reached from Tbilisi in under two hours by car. There is no train service to Kakheti, so every option involves the road.
For a deeper look at the region, see our Telavi and Kakheti guide.
Two Roads to Kakheti
There are two routes connecting Tbilisi with Kakheti, and which one you take affects your travel time and experience.
The Kakheti Highway (S5)
The main route is a two-lane highway heading east from Tbilisi through flat farmland and rolling hills. A new 35-kilometre bypass opened in late 2024, trimming travel time further. This is the road marshrutka vans use, and it is the most direct route to Sighnaghi (1.5 to 2 hours by car). The road is straight, smooth, and gentle on the stomach.
The Gombori Pass
The scenic alternative cuts through the Gombori Mountains with more curves and elevation changes. It is fully paved and offers spectacular views of dense forest and mountain ridges. Taxis to Telavi almost always take this road because it is 30 to 40 minutes faster than the highway route. Marshrutky avoid it because the turns are harder to navigate in a large van.
If you are driving yourself, the Gombori Pass is the more rewarding route, especially if Telavi is your destination.
Option 1: Rental Car (Our Recommendation)
Kakheti is a region best explored with your own wheels. Wineries, monasteries, and viewpoints are scattered across the valley floor and surrounding hills. Public transport gets you to Sighnaghi or Telavi, but everything in between requires a car or chartered taxi.
Why Self-Drive Wins in Kakheti
- Stop at cellar doors on a whim. Most wineries welcome walk-ins for tastings
- Visit Bodbe Monastery, Alaverdi Cathedral, and Gremi Fortress on your own schedule
- Take the scenic Gombori Pass between Tbilisi and Telavi
- Continue to Tusheti (summer only, 4x4 required) or loop back via the Kakheti Highway
- No waiting for shared taxis to fill up, no fixed marshrutka schedules
Which Car to Choose
The roads in Kakheti are paved and well-maintained. A sedan works perfectly for Sighnaghi, Telavi, and the main winery circuit:
- Hyundai Elantra – fuel-efficient and comfortable for couples
- Toyota Sienna – ideal for families or groups with luggage
If you plan to venture beyond the paved roads, into the Tusheti highlands or the semi-desert around David Gareja, a 4x4 is essential:
- Toyota 4Runner – handles everything from highways to mountain tracks
- Jeep Wrangler – perfect for the Abano Pass to Tusheti
- Toyota FJ Cruiser – compact but capable on rough terrain
Browse our full 4x4 fleet or pick up from Tbilisi Airport.
Cost
- Rental: From €40/day with FSTA, no deposit, unlimited mileage
- Fuel: Approximately 40 to 50 GEL for a Tbilisi–Sighnaghi–Telavi–Tbilisi loop
- Delivery: Free to Tbilisi Airport or any hotel in the city
For two or more travellers, a rental car is cheaper per person than shared taxis and infinitely more flexible. A two-day Kakheti loop with a rental car costs roughly the same as one GoTrip transfer.
Option 2: Shared Taxi from Isani Metro Station
If you prefer not to drive, a shared taxi is the next best option. Taxis depart from outside Isani Metro Station on Tbilisi's red metro line. Exit the station, turn left, and walk up the one-way street running parallel to the station building. You will see cars parked outside a row of grey shops near the Bank of Georgia. Drivers hold signs or simply call out destinations.
- To Sighnaghi: 25 to 30 GEL per person, or 100 to 120 GEL for the whole car. Travel time 1.5 to 2 hours
- To Telavi: 20 GEL per person. Travel time 2 to 2.5 hours via the Gombori Pass
Cars fill up fast in the morning from about 10am. If you do not want to wait, pay the full car price and depart immediately. Drivers usually take you to your accommodation door if it is centrally located.
Option 3: Marshrutka Minivan
The cheapest option, departing from Navtlugi (Samgori) Bus Terminal adjacent to Samgori Metro Station. This is not the same station as Didube. Ride the red metro line south to Samgori, exit, and follow signs to the bus terminal.
To Sighnaghi
- Departures: 9am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 5pm, 6pm daily (extra 7am van in summer)
- Fare: 10 GEL, paid to the driver in cash
- Duration: 2 to 2.5 hours
To Telavi
Vans also depart from Navtlugi and from Ortachala Central Bus Station:
- Departures: About a dozen scheduled vans between 8:20am and 5pm
- Fare: 12 to 15 GEL
- Duration: 3+ hours via the Kakheti Highway
Arrive 30 minutes early to secure a seat. Vans leave early if full. Double-check the final destination: some Sighnaghi vans terminate in Tsnori, which is a 10 GEL taxi ride from Sighnaghi.
For full station navigation tips, see our marshrutka guide.
Option 4: Private Transfer
A pre-booked private driver picks you up at any Tbilisi address and delivers you door-to-door.
- To Sighnaghi: From 170 GEL per car, 1.5 hours without stops
- To Telavi: From 130 GEL per car, 2 hours
- Flexibility: Stop at wineries, Bodbe Monastery, or viewpoints along the way
This is a good middle ground between shared transport and self-driving, especially for one-way journeys. The downside: you arrive without a car and need to arrange transport around the region separately.
Getting Around Kakheti
Once in Kakheti, getting between towns and wineries without a car requires creative planning.
Sighnaghi to Telavi
One daily marshrutka departs Sighnaghi at approximately 9:30am (except Sundays). The journey takes about 2 hours via local roads with frequent stops. Fare is around 10 GEL. A taxi costs 60 to 70 GEL and takes 90 minutes.
Alternative route: take any Tbilisi-bound van from Sighnaghi, get off at Chalaubani petrol station, and flag down a Telavi-bound marshrutka from the roadside (about 12 GEL total).
Telavi to Sighnaghi
The return van leaves Telavi at 3:15pm. If that timing does not work, take a van to Tsnori (7 GEL) and transfer to a Sighnaghi-bound van (3 GEL). Total time: about 3 hours. A taxi is 50 to 70 GEL and takes 90 minutes.
Winery Visits
Most wineries are outside walking distance of both towns. With a rental car, you can visit half a dozen in a day at your own pace. Without one, charter a local taxi from your guesthouse (40 to 50 GEL per person for a full day) or book a guided wine tour.
What to See in Kakheti
Kakheti is far more than just wine. Here are the highlights, all accessible by rental car:
- Sighnaghi – walled hilltop town with panoramic Alazani Valley views, restaurants, and galleries
- Bodbe Monastery – 9th-century complex housing the remains of St. Nino, a short drive from Sighnaghi
- Telavi – regional capital with a 2,000-year-old plane tree, Batonis Tsikhe fortress, and bustling bazaar
- Alaverdi Cathedral – one of the tallest medieval churches in Georgia, surrounded by vineyards
- Gremi Fortress – photogenic 16th-century citadel above the Alazani Valley
- Tsinandali Estate – historic winery and museum with beautiful gardens
- David Gareja Monastery – cave monastery on the Azerbaijan border (rough road, 4x4 recommended)
- Lagodekhi National Park – hiking trails and Black Rock Lake, 2 hours from Telavi
See our full Kakheti guide for detailed itineraries.
Onward from Kakheti
To Tusheti
From Telavi, the infamous Abano Pass road leads to Tusheti National Park, one of Europe's most remote mountain regions. The road opens from June to mid-October and requires a proper 4x4. Our Toyota 4Runner and Jeep Wrangler are purpose-built for this drive.
To Azerbaijan
Kakheti borders Azerbaijan, and the Lagodekhi border crossing is the main land route. Note that Azerbaijan's land borders currently have restrictions on inbound travellers. Check current status before planning overland travel.
Return Trip: Kakheti to Tbilisi
From Sighnaghi
Marshrutky depart every 2 hours between 7am and 6pm from the bus stand in Sighnaghi. Shared taxis are available from the main square. A private transfer starts from 160 GEL per car.
From Telavi
Vans depart at least hourly between 9am and 9pm from the New Bus Station. Fare is 12 GEL. Shared taxis cost 20 GEL per person. Travel time is 2 to 3 hours depending on traffic.
Or simply drive your rental car back to Tbilisi.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is there a train from Tbilisi to Kakheti?
No. There is no passenger rail service to Sighnaghi, Telavi, or anywhere in the Kakheti region. All transport is by road. For information about trains in Georgia, see our railway guide.
Which is better, Sighnaghi or Telavi?
Sighnaghi is more picturesque and touristy, with dramatic views and wine bars. Telavi is larger, more local, and has better onward transport connections. Ideally, visit both. Start in Sighnaghi and continue to Telavi.
Can I do Kakheti as a day trip from Tbilisi?
Yes, but you will only scratch the surface. A day trip works for Sighnaghi and one or two wineries. To properly explore both towns plus monasteries and vineyards, plan at least two nights. See our Tbilisi day trips guide for more options.
Do I need a 4x4 for Kakheti?
Not for Sighnaghi, Telavi, or the main winery circuit. A sedan handles all paved roads perfectly. You need a 4x4 only for David Gareja (rough unpaved road) and the Abano Pass to Tusheti (extreme mountain road). See our 4x4 rental page.
Can I pick up a car at Tbilisi Airport and drive to Kakheti?
Yes. The airport is actually closer to Kakheti than central Tbilisi, making it a natural starting point. We deliver free to Tbilisi Airport. Your car is waiting when you land.